My Way Is The Highway

Driving to Lucca

(Earlier this day, we were in San Gimignano)

May 29th, 2009

In Italy, if the road is not winding, then it is not straight either.

Unlike USA, you are never cruising. Something is always happening around you, to you. You are being tailgated, honked at, passed by, sideswiped, raced, instigated. Like in India, driving in Italy is fun if you have the right car and the right temperament.

The only time an Italian seems to hurry is when he is driving. They are racing to get to their destination so that they can quickly go back to being laid back.

We rode up the “laces of the Italian shoe”, North and West.

We stopped as often as we could. To buy cherries, peaches, reddest of oranges. To get a coffee and a gelato when we did not need one.

We were in no hurry. That’s was Italy does to you.

(Read on: We were put up in La Magnolia in Lucca)

La Magnolia in Lucca

(Yesterday, we were in San Gimignano)

May 29th, 2009

We found La Magnolia, our bed and breakfast, by sheer trial and error.

It was a converted apartment in a modern 350 year old building. The ownership had passed generations, dating back to the time Bernini was working in the Vatican, and many of the residents could trace their family trees to names well known in a different era. The room was compact, yet sufficient. We checked in and went back to the car parked outside to get our luggage in.

We saw four five people huddled near our car. Every successful trip, they say, needs a bummer.

Here was ours.

A Fiat Punto had brushed passed our car leaving behind a mercilessly scratched left fender and broken headlight. My heart sank. But only for a second. A nearby barber had meticulously taken down the number of the car. A well dressed lady confidently told us what had happened. A man of military bearing pulled out his phono and called the local precinct – who got mad and asked him not to disturb them with such frivolities.  The well dressed lady agreed to walk us to the police station and sign as a witness.

I believe, once you are travelling, everything is part of the fun. We followed the lady.  She happened to be a resident of the buildings we were staying in. We crossed several cobbled, well conserved courtyards full of playing children. She pointed out several landmarks, historical buildings,  told many anecdotes. Stuff that you would find in no tourist book, stuff that only comes by word of mouth. She told us her story and then her neighbor’s. 

The walk, her company and her stories was the takeaway of the evening. The policei, amidst many shrugs, told us that they can’t do much. They asked us to go to the rental car company and explain.

“They will understand”, they said.

Italia!

 

(Read on: Tomorrow we start the day with Piazza Anfitheatro)

 

 

Technorati Tags: La Magnolia,Lucca,Bernini,Vatican,Fiat Punto

Piazza Anfitheatro in Lucca

(Yesterday, we were in San Gimignano)

May 30th, 2009

Most cities in Italy nowadays allow limited cars in the city center. The cars belong to the residents and people on government duty. This primarily keeps the tourist traffic out and hopefully increases the life of the ancient cobbled streets. The apartment lent us their bicycles. We set out, with Rhea riding pillion. 

Since San Gimignano, we had learnt to keep the itinerary light. We were saving all the art for Florence. We let the roads lead us. Whenever we came to a fork - an explosion of alleyways - we always turned into the one less crowded stopping only now and then to figure out where we were. Lucca presents a rare and precious example of an almost intact historic city center. It remains mostly Roman-medieval with the buildings of the recent 17th, 18th century  managing not to upset the overall character and the balance of the city.

The day trippers, pouring in from Florence, Siena, Cartona  started to buzz in around 11:00 AM, substantially changing the atmosphere.

It was time to find a a table in a Piazza and order some nice wine.

 

 

If you are having only one lunch in Lucca, it has to be in Piazza de Anfitheatro. This is the  site of a 1st and 2nd century amphitheatre. Almost nothing of the amphitheatre above the ground survives other than the arc on the east (seen here on the right).  The crammed buildings, like a crowd converging on a street magician, is a result of a overhaul of the Piazza were rebuilt in 1830.

The intact subterranean structures – basements and drainage – mostly in good shape were used as the foundation. The effect is spectacular and harmonious. The delicious lunch is incidental. Wanting a different angle to shoot, I asked several shopkeepers if there was a way to reach the terrace. If they understood my by now broken English, they did not show any signs of comprehension.

 

(Read on: Next, we are going to climb the Guinigi Tower)

 

 

Technorati Tags: Piazza Anfitheatro,Lucca,San Gimignano,Florence,Roman architecture,Siena,Cartona,Roman amphitheatre